Peak Lenin 7134m - Nick Valentine taking the final few steps to the summit!

Peak Lenin

Peak Lenin 7134m is the perfect first 7000er: technically straightforward, beautiful scenery and a fantastic long summit ridge offering outstanding views across the entire Pamir mountain range!

Situated in the remote and beautiful Pamir mountain range of Kyrgyzstan – Peak Lenin 7134mm is one of the five famous Snow Leopard Peaks. Often dubbed as one of the ‘easiest’ 7000ers in the world, it offers a non-technical climb on glaciers, snow and rocks into the magic high altitude world. This professionally lead expedition offers experienced mountaineers the opportunity to experience a real mountain climbing experience.

Expedition key points

  • Professionally lead by Jon Gupta (3 expeditions – 2012, 2014, 2016)
  • Limited places & personal approach (Max 9)
  • Relaxed itinerary including additional acclimatisation days
  • Summit guides 1:4
  • Good quality accommodation and all meals included
  • Excellent local knowledge & relationships with the local team
  • Ideal first 7000m peak
  • Ski/climb option

Experience required

Peak Lenin is a real high altitude adventure. Previous altitude and mountaineering experience is required. Members will be expected to be self-sufficient and self-reliant on the mountain – a high level of fitness is essential. Peak Lenin is physically demanding with big days and big packs. Technical climbing skills are not required, however, experience at altitude and an understanding of glacier travel is essential.

Expedition training

There will be a compulsory training weekend for the whole team based in Scotland in the winter. This will comprise of a 3 day 2 night mini expedition out in the winter conditions using the tents and cookers that will have for the main expedition. It will also be an opportunity to discuss the kit list extensively and any other aspect of the trip. NB. This is not included in the price as some members may join the team after the training as taken place. Costs will be kept to an absolute minimum.

The team

There are a total of just 9 places available on this expedition. To ensure the safety and success of the expedition all members will have to meet the experience requirements above. Mountain Expeditions may ask to see a mountaineering resume.


Off-piste and high altitude skiing experience is essential. You can ski directly from the summit or from high camp all the way to the start of the glacier. It is all off-piste, glaciated and committing due to the nature of the surroundings. You will also be skiing with a large pack at times. Only highly experienced skiers should attempt to ski. You will need to bring your own equipment. You would also be free to tour/skin up the mountain.

From Jon

“Peak Lenin is a fantastic experience into the high altitude world. The Pamir mountains are really special and relatively untouched. This expedition offers you a different experience into the old soviet country of Kyrgyzstan– its pretty mad, but cool!”

Why choose Mountain Expeditions?

Jon has spent over 3 months climbing in Kyrgyzstan including three full expeditions to Peak Lenin (two as part of his Snow Leopard Expeditions). In 2016 we successfully put 4 members on the summit along side 2 local guides and Jon. In 2014 Jon and his climbing partner Nick successfully climbed and skied from the summit: a 1st British ski descent! Jon has built a unique relationship with his local agency combining a deep mutual trust and respect resulting in a great working relationship. There is no doubt this rubs off on the team setting things up for an outstanding expedition.

We offer a personal and pragmatic approach to expedition life, allowing you to enjoy the experience to the full. This combined with a realistic mountain itinerary allows for sufficient acclimatisation, giving you the best preparation to reach the summit.

The small things count and Mountain Expeditions appreciates that everyone has different expectations and requirements. For many this is the first 7000m mountain they have climbed, and a little nerves and anxiety is perfectly normal.

Mountain Expeditions is supported and backed by the best local logistics company in Kyrgyzstan. They are outstanding on and off the mountain and understand the needs and requirements of our teams well.


Date From Date to (if applicable) Description
08/07/2018 Arrive Osh, Kyrgyzstan
09/07/2018 Prep day/sightseeing
10/07/2018 Transfer to Basecamp
11/07/2018 20/07/2016 Acclimatisation program
21/07/2016 23/07/2016 Summit window
24/07/2018 25/07/2018 Descent & pack up
26/07/2018 Transfer back to Osh
27/07/2018 Wash, eat, drink & party!
28/07/2018 Depart


Do I need a visa?


No – However, if you are not a British passport holder then please check here!

What sort of insurance do I need?


The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) is a good source of information. There are also many other companies that can insure you for Peak Lenin. All members require insurance in order to join our expeditions.

Does Mountain Expeditions carry a first aid kit? What do I need to carry?


Yes – All Mountain Expeditions trips carry a comprehensive team medical first aid kit including high altitude drugs, pain killers and antibiotics. As a team member you are asked to bring just basic pain killers (as per kit list) and any medication you normally take.

I have a special medical requirement can I climb Peak Lenin? eg, Diabetes

For all specialist medical advise we suggest you consult your GP. However Mountain Expeditions Medical Advisors are always on hand to help answer your questions and give you the best advise possible. Please contact us if you would like to check a specific medical requirement.

How technical is the climb?

The steepest sections of of the climb are short lived. For the most part it is broad ridges and open glaciers. However, on summit day there are a few small section of steeper snow/ice at around Scottish II. These will be fixed with a line for our safety.

What is the food like?


Its good, simple, tasty, fresh food. In Basecamp and Advance Basecamp we are catered for which is welcomed after a rotation on the mountain! Whilst on the hill Mountain Expeditions provides all the breakfasts, lunches, sweets, snacks and nibbles. We take our food seriously so don’t worry – there will be loads of goodies!

Do I carry all my own kit, eg tents and cookers?

Mountain Expeditions will have the tents and cookers portered to Camp 1 and Camp 2 but that is all. Everything else that goes on (and off) the mountain will be carried by us. In the itinerary we have some load carry days to help get our kit up the mountain, and aid our acclimatisation.

Can I hire kit? Eg, -20 down sleeping bag?

Yes – Mountain Expeditions has a variety of hire kit available, just ask us! There is very limited availability to hire any kit in Kyrgyzstan so you need to arrive with all your expedition kit.

What sort of boots do it need for summit night?

Peak Lenin can be very cold and snowy so good boots are essential. Ideally you need a 7000m boot – Scarpa Vega, La Sportiva Spantik, or any of the 8000m boots would be ideal. If you are unsure about the boots you have then send us a pic or a link and we’ll take a look! Your feet are often the first thing to get cold so having the right boots is really important!

What happens if I get sick from high altitude or an illness?

The itinerary is flexible and adaptable and can be amended accordingly. Mountain Expeditions appreciates that sometimes these things happen. The support network behind our expeditions is second to none.

Can I communicate with people back home?

There is signal at Basecamp and occasionally you can get a few bars at Advance Basecamp but otherwise no, there is none on the mountain. If you would like to speak with folk back home then a Sat Phone would be best.

What happens if I need to leave the expedition early for any reason?

This is no problem at all. We can facilitate a quick and slick early departure if necessary, and my local agency will assist you in anything you require such as flight changes etc. Any additional expenses would have to be covered by you.





Jon Gupta (2018)

Expedition Dates

From To Notes
07/07/2018 28/07/2018 £3275
06/07/2019 27/07/2019 £3475

Expedition Downloads