A climber ascends the final few meters to the summit of Island Peak, Nepal

Island Peak

Soaring high into the sky, Island Peak is a fantastic climb with a superb alpine summit ridge and outstanding views across the Himalaya!

Island Peak 6189m is situated in the Kumbu valley of Nepal just 2 days off the Everest trail surrounded entirely by glaciers. It is one of Nepal’s most classic trekking peaks and the perfect first 6000er. The Kumbu is a really special and magical place, and Island Peak is a fantastic objective. It has a little bit of everything: spectacular trekking, some glacier travel, steeper climbing on fixed lines and a beautiful summit ridge. The views from the top of Island Peak are truly incredible – Makalu, Lhotse, Barentse, Ama Dablam…and the list goes on!

Expedition key points

  • Lead by Jon Gupta (7 expeditions – 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014)
  • Small teams & personal approach (Max 8)
  • Relaxed 14 day trekking itinerary including 2 additional acclimatisation days
  • Summit Sherpas on a 1:3 ratio
  • Good quality lodges with full menu choice for all meals
  • Outstanding summit success rate & safety record
  • Excellent local knowledge & relationships with the local Sherpas
  • Ideal first 6000m peak

Expedition video


Experience required:

Island Peak is open to anyone looking for a real Himalayan adventure. Whilst mountaineering experience would be beneficial, having previous use of ice axe/crampons is not essential. Island Peak would be ideal for people who have done Kilimanjaro or Elbrus and are looking for their next expedition. However, it would equally suit those with an adventurous spirt and an aptitude for pushing their limits.

Why not join one of our Scottish Winter Course and learn the winter skills.

“The depth of his experience and the respect earned through his accomplishments in the region meant first class treatment with doors to additional opportunities opening up wherever we went”

David Watkins – Everest Basecamp 2013, Island Peak 2014

From Jon

“Nepal is such an amazing and magical place, and I have spent over 1 year of life on expedition here! I have made many friends in the Sherpas and tea house owners over the past 7 seasons – and look forward to sharing the Himalayan experience with new folk. It feels like my second home now!”

Why choose Mountain Expeditions?

We offer a personal and pragmatic approach to expedition life, allowing you to enjoyed the experience to the full. A flexible and realistic itinerary with additional acclimatisation days in Dingboche 4400m and Chukkung 4730 allows ample time to prepare yourself for the ascent.

Over the past 14 expeditions in the Khumbu, 7 of which on Island Peak, Mountain Expeditions is now well recognised and welcomed warmly at each of the lodges. Jon has an excellent rapport with the lodge owners, trekking sherpas, porters and high altitude sherpa’s, working with the same highly respected team each season.

Mountain Expeditions is backed by the best logistics and Sherpa team in the Kumbu. With years of experience working as a close-knit team, our sherpas have ascended more 8000m peaks put together than you could possibly imagine, and therefore have an excellent understanding of the needs and requirements of the team.


Date From Date to (if applicable) Description


Do I need a visa?

Yes – You can obtain a visa easily on arrival in Kathmandu or apply before hand. In 2013 it was $40 for a 30 day visa. Make sure you bring a passport photo if you are obtaining your visa on arrival.

What sort of insurance do I need?

The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) is a good source of information. There are many companies that can insure you for Island Peak, its important you state that this is recognised ‘Trekking Peak’ over 6000m. Most adventure insurers would have heard of Island Peak. You require insurance in order to join our expeditions.

Does Mountain Expeditions carry a first aid? What do I need to carry

Yes – Mountain Expeditions carries a comprehensive team first aid kit including high altitude drugs, antibiotics, etc. As a team member you are asked to bring basic pain killers and any medication you normally take.

I have a special medical requirement can I climb Island Peak? eg, Diabetes

For all specialist medical advice we suggest you consult your GP, however Mountain Expeditions Medical Advisors are always on hand to help answer your questions and give you the best advice possible.

How technical is the climb?

The steeper section or the head wall is a snow/ice slope at around 40/45 degrees will be fixed with a rope. It is around 150m long. You do not require ice axes to ascend this section – you will be using a jumar. If you are familiar with wearing a harness and tying into a rope then this would be beneficial.

What is the food like?

Its good, simple, tasty, fresh food. You choose what you eat! During the trek we stay in tea houses along the trail and you can choose from the menu. This way you get to eat what you feel in the mood for.

Do I need to have crampon and fixed lines experience?

Whilst some crampon experience would be beneficial it is not essential. Your Mountain Expeditions leader will run 2 fixed line training sessions, this will give you plenty of time to learn how to use them. It would be beneficial if you had some abseiling experience.

Can I hire kit?

Yes – Mountain Expeditions has plenty of hire kit available, just ask. You can also hire most things from the kit list from Shona’s in Kathmandu. Your Mountain Expeditions leader will take you to Shona’s and help you sort out any kit.

What sort of boots do it need for summit night?

Island Peak can be cold and snowy so good boots are essential. Ideally you need a 6000m boot –  Scarpa Omega, Sportiva Spantik etc If you are unsure about the boots you have then just ask us! These can be easily hired. NB: During the trekking you need summer walking boots.

What happens if I get sick from high altitude or a bug?

The itinerary is flexible and adaptable and can easily be adjusted accordingly. Mountain Expeditions knows the Khumbu very well, the support network behind our expeditions is second to none. On summit day, should you need to descend for any reason you will always be accompanied back down.

Can I communicate with people back home?

In the Kumbu phone signal is quite good. In the lower part of the valley 3G is also possible. We advise that on arrival in Kathmandu you buy a NCell sim card (very cheap) and either bring an unlocked phone or buy a cheap Nokia in country.





Jon Gupta

Expedition Dates

From To Notes
31/03/2019 20/04/2019 Open

Expedition Downloads