Elbrus at 5642m is the highest mountain in Europe and one of the world famous 7 summits! The southside of Elbrus is surrounded by vast open valleys carved by glaciers and the towering twin peaks of Elbrus itself, getting to the summit is never easy but the effort makes for an unforgettable shared journey.
Entirely planned & organised by Mountain Expeditions (16+ expeditions)
A relaxed itinerary with rest days and a built in 2 day weather window
The best local logistics available to support the expedition
97% summit success over 16 expeditions
24/7 support & advice from Mountain Expeditions
“An incredible trip, superbly organised, lead with passion & professionalism – absolutely loved it!” Ben Herbert
Expedition Facts
Duration:
10 days
Activity:
High Altitude
Accommodation:
Hotel & Mountain Huts
Difficulty Level:
B2 (Explain this)
Overview
Trip Suitability
Itinerary
Map
Included
Not Included
Difficulty Level
In-country Safety
FAQs
Overview
Mt Elbrus at 5642m is Europe’s highest mountain and the perfect first big alpine peak. Technically straight forward, Elbrus presents a fantastic objective as one of the world famous 7 summits!
Situated in the quiet western Caucasus mountain range in Russia, we’ll gradually gain height and acclimatise well, before making an attempt to the highest point in Europe. Once acclimatised, our route follows the northern snow slopes to the col between Elbrus’ twin summits, before ascending to the West Peak – the true summit of Europe’s highest mountain!
Organised and lead by Mountain Expeditions
Mountain Expeditions are expedition specialists – simply put we love organising and delivering world class expeditions. We understand that joining any of our expeditions is a big deal, so we try and make sure everything is perfect from start to finish.
Fully supported by local cooks, porters & guides
The truth behind organising and leading worldwide expeditions is that you need an excellent local in-country agent to work with. Over the years Mountain Expeditions have developed a long standing relationship with our local crews and the added value of our friendly and efficient local staff never goes unnoticed – we know it makes a big difference to your experience. Our local team are a huge part of your experience and make all the difference on the mountain.
Local Mountain Guides
With all our expeditions we partner with the very best local in-country agencies who shares our ethos of delivering outstanding expeditions. For Elbrus, a local guide will be with the team throughout the entire expedition and an additional local guide will be used during the summit push.
Very high summit success rate
We believe that our high summit success rate is down to a combination of smaller teams and using the most experienced High Altitude Expedition Leaders. This combination has shown time and time again that this is the safest approach whilst on the mountain.
9 day flexible itinerary with a 2 summit day window
Our itinerary has been chosen to make this trip the very best we believe it can be. We’ve built in climb high sleep low days to aid your acclimatisation, a full rest day before your summit attempt and of course there are some big days too! We have also built in a 2 day weather window to allow plenty of time to reach the summit.
A perfect non-technical high altitude peak
There are many reasons people climb big mountains and many reasons why you might choose Elbrus as your next one. Due to its low technicality, Elbrus offers a realistic opportunity to summit a big mountain without having years of experience. Please read our Trip Suitability section to find out more.
Accommodation: hotel & mountain huts
Many of our expeditions start and finish in a bustling city in a really nice hotel or lodge. Maybe it’s first and last impressions that count or perhaps we just enjoy having nice accommodation when starting and finishing a trip but it’s what we do! On the mountain we make sure camp life is as comfortable as we can.
Trip Suitability
Although Elbrus is a non-technical ascent, at 5642m metres summit day is still a long and extremely tough climb at high altitude. It is a brilliant mountaineering expedition requiring some basic glacial travel. The expedition is graded B2 to reflect this (refer to the Difficulty Level tab for more details).
Elbrus South is ideal for people who have climbed mountains like Kilimanjaro or for those who’ve done a Scottish Winter Skills Course and are looking for their first big expedition. Previous experience of using ice axe and crampons in winter conditions would be an advantage, but it isn’t essential.
In preparation for any mountain expedition, we offer Expedition Specific Training courses in both winter and summer. This is a great chance for you spend time in the UK mountains with an experienced expedition leader and learn some new skills, getting better prepared for you next big expedition objective. If you are booked on an expedition with us already then we offer a 10% discount on these courses.
If you are unsure if your experience is suitable for Elbrus, please don’t hesitate to Contact Us and we’ll discuss it with you in more detail.
Itinerary
The itinerary below is intended as a guideline only, although every effort will be made to adhere to it, changes may be forced upon it by weather conditions, transport failure or other unforeseen events. You should be prepared to be flexible where necessary.
Day 1: Arrival in Mineralnye Vody, transfer & briefing
Arrival at Mineralnye Vody airport (time tbc) and transfer to the small village of Cheget to overnight at the hotel. It is a 3 hour transfer in a private minibus.
Day 2: Acclimatisation hike to mt Cheget 3650m
After breakfast you ride the old school chair lift up to the slopes of Cheget Peak and then hike the final ~600m to the summit. From here you will (hopefully) get perfect views of Elbrus opposite you!
Day 3: Acclimatisation hike to 4100m
Today we will take the ski lifts up on to Elbrus itself and take short hike upto ~4100m. This is will be in snow and will require boot and possibly crampons (although probably not the later). Protection from the sun will be key on all days on the snow. Once finished we take the lifts back down and spend another night at the hotel in Cheget.
Day 4: Acclimatisation hike to lower pastukhov rocks ~4650m
We take the ski lifts back up the mountain in morning and drop all our kit off before taking a hike up to lower pastukhov rocks for further acclimatisation. Afternoon settling into the hut and sleeping here.
Day 5: Acclimatisation hike to 5000m
Your final acclimatisation hike on the mountain – aiming to reach 5000m. There is an old snowcat shell here and it’s the point on the trail where the angle changes and traverse begins. The views are incredible across the Caucasus range so don’t forget to look behind you from time to time!
Day 6: Rest day
This is a full rest day at the hut. You can enjoy a lye in, read a book, eat, hydrate and sort your bag ready for the morning. If you wish you could ride the ski lifts back down to Azul, take lunch, and ride the lift back up. (Lunch and Lifts not included for this).
Day 7: Summit day Mount Elbrus (5642m)
Early start around 2 or 3am and onto the Snowcat and upto upper pastukhov rocks ~4800m. Then up into the night! The stars are usually incredible and hopefully you will soon be greeted by a very special sunrise. The route takes you into the col between the two summits and up onto the higher west summit to the highest point in europe!
Day 8: Reserve day
Today is reserved just encase of bad weather on summit day.
Day 9: Transfer to airport & trip ends
Today we say our goodbyes and you will be transferred to the airport for your return flight.
Map
Included
When you book with Mountain Expeditions, we want you to know exactly how much the trip is going to cost you, with absolutely no hidden extras or last-minute costs. Our fully inclusive land-only price includes almost everything from the minute you land at Mineralnye Vody Airport until the time we drop you back off – even all your meals (no more awkward bill splitting – we take care of that!)
The following are included in our price:
A local Mountain Guide and 1 assistant summit guide
Snowcat on summit night to 4800m (1 time)
National Park Permits & local registrations
Visa application support including supporting documents
Return in-country airport transfers
All in-country meals – including celebration meal
All accommodation as per the itinerary (4 nights in hotel, 4 nights in mountain hut)
24/7 support from Mountain Expeditions & our Local Agency
You should also refer to the Not Included section.
Not Included
The following are NOT included in our price:
International flights to Mineralnye Vody Airport (MRV)
Russian visa
Travel insurance
Tips €50
Items of a personal nature – phone calls, laundry, room service, alcoholic beverages, wifi etc.
Personal clothing & equipment – please refer to the Kit List.
Unscheduled hotels and restaurant meals e.g. if bad weather grounds flights or contingency days are not used
Any additional costs associated with leaving the expedition early
Difficulty Level
All of our UK Courses & Worldwide Expeditions come with a suggested difficulty level to help you choose the correct one. For a full explanation of the Scottish Winter, Alpine and UK Rock Climbing grading systems, this blog explains them all – Grades Explained
Grading for UK Courses
With all our UK courses please refer to the Trip Suitability section for more specific details on course expectation and technical and physical levels required.
C1 – Intro Course: open to any level and ability
C2 – Intermediate Courses: previous experience of scrambling/rock climbing or winter mountaineering
With all our Worldwide Expeditions you should refer to the Trip Suitability section for more specific details on the expedition expectation and technical and physical levels required. If in any doubt please don’t hesitate to contact us.
Physical
A. Good basic fitness, as for UK hill walking and mountaineering. Average rucksack weight: 6-8 kg
B. Good cardio-vascular fitness which for most people requires some training, by running, hiking and perhaps some gym work. Average rucksack weight: 8-12 kg.
C. High level of fitness coupled with physical toughness and the ability to carry a heavy rucksack for long periods. Average rucksack weight: 12-18 kg.
D. As for C, but tougher. Climbs of this grade are exceptionally strenuous and some weight loss is inevitable. Train hard and arrive fit. Welcome to ask for advice if training specifically.
E. Hard physical effort at extreme altitude which requires thorough preparation based on your experience of previous trips. Comments for ‘D’ also apply. May cause long-term fatigue after the trip.
Technical
1. Low angle snow or straightforward scrambling on rocks. Ropes are not usually required. Previous climbing experience is not essential.
2. Ropes are used principally for glacier travel and low angle snow or ice slopes. Ice axe and crampon experience necessary.
3. Short, steep sections of snow or ice up to about 50 degrees. Previous snow and ice climbing experience of Scottish III/Alpine PD is essential.
4. Long, steep snow and ice slopes with short steps of very steep ice or low grade rock climbing. Good all-round climbing ability required to Scottish III/Alpine AD.
5. Very steep ice (Scottish III/IV or harder) or rock (Hard Severe or harder). Suitable for competent mountaineers who have climbed consistently at these standards.
In-country Safety
Government Advice
We support the British Foreign & Commonwealth Office (FCO) ‘Know Before You Go’ campaign and recommend that you have a good read of the FCO Travel Advice for Russia. You should also refer to our FAQ ‘Is it safe in the Elbrus region’ further down on this page.
24/7 Expedition Medical Advisors
We work very closely with two specialist Expedition Medical Advisors (EMA’s). If you have any concerns about how your health conditions may be affected whilst in the mountains with us, you are welcome to talk with our EMA’s prior to your trip – all you need to do is let us know and we’ll put you in touch. Whilst on expedition our EMA’s are contactable 24/7 to provide our leaders with advice or assistance during any arising medical situation.
Emergency Operation Procedures
We work very hard to ensure we have a clear plan for all eventualities that may arise during the expedition. Liaising with local agencies including mountain rescue means we adhere to local regulations, have a clear evacuation process and ensure all the ‘what ifs’ are covered.
Risk Assessments & British Standards
Whilst expeditions to big mountains have inherent objective risks, we do our very best to mitigate these risks as much as possible. Careful planning and thorough consideration of all aspects of the trip means that there are very few surprises. We take advice and guidance from the British Standards BS8848 publication as well as from our experienced leaders and local agents.
FAQs
What do I need to know about booking my flights?
For this expedition you need to arrive at Mineralnye Vody Airport together.
The transfer is 3 hours to Cheget so ideally you will all arrive around the same time.
Individual or separate transfers can be arranged if required.
Is it safe in the Elbrus region?
Firstly, regardless of where we travel, we always take advice from the Foreign & Commonwealth Office (FCO) website.
The FCO currently advise against “all but essential travel" to the Elbrus Region. Whilst it is possible to obtain travel insurance for this climb, you should read the FCO advice and be willing to accept the risks associated with travelling to this region. Our itinerary is based on Mountain Expeditions previous experience of Elbrus and the team will be led by an experienced Mountain Expeditions Expedition Leader who was been to the region before. The itinerary is also assisted by local mountain guides.
We will continously monitor the FCO prior to your expedition and keep all members up to date.
For peace of mind, during all of Mountain Expeditions previous trips to Elbrus, we have never come across any problems and have instead, just found friendly, helpful people.
Do I need a visa?
Yes. Despite the visa application being comprehensive, it is straightforward however, you are required to have an ‘invitation letter’.
Once you have signed up for the trip, we need your passport details. Once we have this, we will send you a personalised invitation letter and a useful PDF on how to apply for a Russian visa to help you through the process.
NB. Please note that you are currently required to go to the visa office in person. These offices are in Manchester, Edinburgh and London
What sort of insurance do I need?
To join our expeditions it is mandatory that all members have insurance that covers helicopter rescue & evacuations.
There are many companies to choose from including: BMC, Snowcard, Ripcord, DogTag etc. However, due to the FCO advice, we've found the BMC to be the main insurance provider for Elbrus over the past few years.
Do we have assistance from a local in-country agent?
Yes, we work very closely with our local in-country agency who are highly regarded as being one of the (if not the) best on the mountain. We have 24/7 contact them during the expedition and they are always on standby to help assist with anything we may need throughout the expedition.
Your local guide will help with anything you need in-country.
What is the food like?
The food is really good and plentiful - but it is Russian! It is all prepared on the mountain by our fantastic cooks. Generally you can expect 2 hot meals a day and a good packed lunch. We would advise you to bring a few of your favourite snacks with you.
Any special dietary requirements can easily be catered for – just let us know.
What if I'm vegetarian or have dietary requirements?
All you need to do is let us know your specific requirements and we will pass them on to our local cook team. They are very used to dealing with dietary requirements and whatever yours is, it wont be a problem at all.
Are we using a Snowcat on summit night?
Yes, you are planning to use the Snowcat on summit night. It will take you from the mountain huts to pastukhov rocks ~4700m and you will make your ~1000m summit bid from here. On the descent you will make your own way down to the huts as per normal.
What are the mountain huts like?
Really cool! The high Mountain Huts are fixed structures that have been converted to sleep the team. They are warm, dry, basic and quite fun!
How cold will it be?
This really depends on the weather but you should always be prepared for the worst. If you follow the kit list you won’t be far off. A down jacket is essential as well as a good set of gloves/mitts.
Do I need to have crampon experience?
Whilst some crampon experience would be beneficial it is not essential. Your Mountain Expeditions leader will check and run through a crampon session with the team and there is plenty of time to master the basics before you make your summit attempt.
Can I hire kit?
Yes, we have plenty of hire kit available. It is also possible to hire a few items locally.
What sort of boots do I need?
Elbrus can be cold and snowy so good boots are essential. Ideally you need a 6000m boot – Scarpa Omega, Sportiva Spantik, Nepal Extremes etc. You need to be able to wear nice thick mountain socks and still have plenty of room to wiggle your toes. If you are unsure about the boots you have, just ask.
Can I have a 1:1 summit guide?
For this private expedition you have local guide throughout and an additional summit guide. If you would like your own private 1:1 summit guide then we can arrange this for you.
How many times has Mountain Expeditions been to Elbrus?
Over the past 10 years we have organised and successfully delivered 16 expeditions to Elbrus, 13 to the south and 3 to the north.
The majority of our local guides have 60+ summits each!
Do I need glacial travel experience?
Whilst some glacial travel experience would be beneficial it is not essential. The terrain is very straightforward and you will have ample time to get used to walking in crampons and in a rope team. Your Mountain Expeditions leader will check and run through a glacial travel session with the team and there is plenty of time to master the basics before you make your summit attempt.
Pricing, Dates & Availability
Live Trip Status: This trip is live & taking bookings for Talha & friends only. The status will change from ‘Available‘ to ‘Confirmed‘ once there are 4 bookings but this isn’t relevant to your group as you are a private booking so please ignore it. Once you have booked your place on the trip we recommend you go ahead and book your flight and insurance.
Trip Cost:
The total cost per person (including summit Snowcat) for your Private Climb is on a sliding scale as follows:
South route (9 days)
4 people – £1765 pp
5 people – £1570 pp
6 people – £1440 pp
We will amend the final balance payment accordingly once you have confirmed final numbers. You will receive an email reminder about the final payment which is due 6 weeks prior to departure: on 27th July.
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